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Leashes, clips, and kitemares

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Northwest Kiteboarding -> Gorge / Portland / Oregon Coast
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bwd

Since 04 Aug 2007
385 Posts

Obsessed



PostFri Aug 24, 07 2:13 pm    Leashes, clips, and kitemares Reply with quote

Don't usually post here as I am not a local rider but I think this concerns everyone, so here goes:

Recently a guy posted on another forum an account of an accident:
Quote:
hi guys was out at the bluff in cornwall launched a kite on a new bar and it all went pete tong i was getting dragged up the beach so i did a full release as i pulled on my naish leash it released the kite fine but i then found that the hook where it connects to my harness was in my hand but still connected to my harness leaving me really HOOKED in to my harness the guys on the beach cut the harness to release the hook. i dont think this is a fault in the naish design and could have happened on any leash. would be interested if anyone has seen anything like it before or anyways to avoid it. as it took 3 days in hospital and 2 general anesthetics to get the bastard out as it was hooked on a nerve. all i can say is i think unhooked rideing is the future


And posted a grisly photo to go with it (below).

This led to a discussion of leashes to which I made the following contribution:

Release should be red, orange or yellow. Most common safety gear, as in aviation, autos, etc. uses these colors. Best overall visibility.

Release should be actuated by pulling, not by pushing away from the user.

There are established mechanical and physiological reasons pulling is faster and safer, including strength, coordination, number of muscle groups, reaction time, etc.
Good enough for ejector seats, good enough for kiters.
Seatbelts don't work this way- but that's becuase you are not supposed to be able to take them off really fast, you wait till the car stops!

Actuating the release pulling toward the user, against tension created by the kite has the advantage of keeping the parts aligned in most designs, so they don't bind.
Pulling at a right angle doesn't have these advantages.
Pushing away is awkward and slow, milliseconds count.

There are some nice yachting shackles adapted to kite products, but I am against them because:

-They have too many parts, not all of which are visible to casual inspection.

-They usually require a right angle or oblique pull, and depend on smooth functioning under side loads to release. Works well usually, but what if it gets jammed with grit and binds?

-They usually have a line, ball or toggle attached -just something else to snag a line, clothes or body parts on.

-Once open or while opening the parts may assume a conformation that can snag things.

-Finally, they are the most expensive option!

Release should be located where either hand of user can reach it, usually within 30 cm of the user end of the leash.
As far as I know this is the case in every leash I have seen. For a handle pass leash or some other attachment on the side or back of harness, maybe use an extension to make sure the the release will be accessible however you fall.

As to the attachments to the harness and to kite lines, egor's post
http://www.kiteforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2341451
shows why not to use carabiner-style spring clips -or anything else with a "Hook" shape.

I have suspected that the switch to this style, now common, was because they are cheap and suggested that in the earlier thread. A quick web search supports this, at least from a couple of suppliers. Metalwork being what it is, I suspect the difference is consistent across suppliers.

I am grateful for efforts to control cost and have the sport operate on a good, value-oriented profitable business basis!
After all, I complain about prices as much as the next guy, sometimes more. Egor's accident and most others are IMHO, the results of a chain of events rather than one single thing. But there is a problem here, and I don't think safety hardware is a good place to cut cost.

I use a 2005 slingshot leash with a red webbing-loop pull release that meets all the requirements above, with "trigger snap" clips on both ends that are compact and do not snag easily. The jaws of the clips can snag lines or fingers, but the 1/2 inch opening and the jaws' angulation makes it much less likely compared to the wide opening and hooked shape of a gated carbiner style shackle. As far as I know these trigger snaps are the best clips available for the purpose. I have released this leash under load (kite) several times for practice and testing, but never in a crash. As far as know it works, and I test the release often before rigging up. Should do every time.

I think the trigger snap type shackle is a good way to attach the ends of the leash.

Of course one could just tie the ends directly to the harness and kite. That way you would be motivated to make sure the release worked! I think that would be a very bad idea though for the obviouos reason -less options.

The best solution would probably be to have the safety release in the the line near the kiter as usual, and to have the attachment to the harness be a safety-release type connection as well instead of a shackle.
Of course, nothing is foolproof, as I demonstrate most every time I am on the water.

Finally, in the water at least, if you have a good knife (you should)
you may be better off cutting away than trying to release a shackle under load!
After all, it is an emergency.

Sorry for long post, but folks keep getting hurt on these gated clips; IMHO they need to go away. Not looking to stir up trouble, just don't want to see more impaling injuries.
Thoughts?

BWD
ref.
http://www.kiteforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2341451
http://www.kiteforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2341500


   a good leash.JPG 
Better. $10-11
 Better. $10-11  trigger snap shackle.jpg 
Bad. only $5-8 though.
 Bad. only $5-8 though.  carabiner style harness clip.jpg 
   hand_203.jpg 

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Reaper356

Since 10 Dec 2006
781 Posts
Salem / LC Oregon
Opinionated



PostFri Aug 24, 07 6:54 pm     Reply with quote

Um ouch.

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