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Mystic Stealth Slider Rope?

 
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exhibitpro

Since 03 May 2019
7 Posts
Los Angeles \ Hood River
Kook



PostTue Aug 03, 21 9:47 am    Mystic Stealth Slider Rope? Reply with quote

Does anyone have a more bullet proof solution for a replacement line for the stealth rope slider other than the 5/16" Dyneema that comes stock with these? I'm only getting about 25 sessions before it starts to look sketchy.
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earthsurfer526

Since 11 Jan 2009
54 Posts
Hood River, OR
 



PostTue Aug 03, 21 10:01 am     Reply with quote

This is what I use...
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/new-england-rope-sts-wr2-sk-78-synthetic-life-line

I also change the ring to this so that is does not wear so quickly.
https://www.rei.com/product/799957/smc-rigging-ring

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jasonq

Since 12 Jan 2009
242 Posts
hood river
Stoked



PostTue Aug 03, 21 10:26 am     Reply with quote

ES526, I like the rope linked. Also like the ring. good calls on both.

But what i use on mine is a 1/8 dyneema line, doubled. by doubled i mean i run one inside of another to end up with a rather solid, strong result. this seems to last longer because it doesn't deform nearly as much when the ring slides over the rope. I use a talon so my sliding bit is pretty similar to the ring linked above.

that said, 5/16 dyeema should be like 9000 lbs breaking strength. it can afford to look extremely sketchy before any danger of breaking.

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
4198 Posts
Camas
XTreme Poster

CGKA Member


PostTue Aug 03, 21 11:50 am     Reply with quote

jasonq wrote:

that said, 5/16 dyeema should be like 9000 lbs breaking strength. it can afford to look extremely sketchy before any danger of breaking.


The problem with dyneema and amsteel is that a visual inspection doesn't tell you much. It can be badly frayed and still hold. I've also seen it where it only looks a little frayed and it just lets go. It's the way it's braided; each thread can end up on top. So if you have minor fraying over a few inches you might have severed most of the threads, or severed just a few threads in multiple places...

Good call on doubling up the rope internally. For some reason amsteel just never seems to fray once you do that. I've had depower ropes that ran for 5 or 6 years not show any wear at all doing that.

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jasonq

Since 12 Jan 2009
242 Posts
hood river
Stoked



PostTue Aug 03, 21 11:59 am     Reply with quote

Nak,
good point of the braid and wear when it is along a length. i was thinking of wear at a given point in the rope, but you are totally right when used as a slider rope.

and yes on the doubled internally rope. I haven't really seen one show any wear yet on a slider rope or depower line. I assume it is because they hold their shape better, but really have no idea why it seems to work so well. And even when it does, it inner rope should still be unworn.

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exhibitpro

Since 03 May 2019
7 Posts
Los Angeles \ Hood River
Kook



PostWed Aug 04, 21 8:21 am     Reply with quote

Thanks all you rope slider Yodas! I appreciate your input.

Jasonq, so the dymeema is hollow? You can get a 1/8" inside another 1/8"?

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jasonq

Since 12 Jan 2009
242 Posts
hood river
Stoked



PostWed Aug 04, 21 9:17 am     Reply with quote

yes, its hollow, at least the braided type the is used for flying lines and depower lines is.

and you can do what is call a splice for making loops, etc.

to double the rope like myself and Nak do, look at this page. it is nothing but a really long, long bury splice. and look at all the other ways you can splice, especially the mcdonald brummel. this website rocks btw.

https://www.animatedknots.com/splicing-knots

if you search i think Nak might have a post describing how to make a double depower line. exact same process he shows.

for a fid, i use a very small doubled over wire for small loops, but for the double depower type i tape the end of the line to a small sorta knitting needle thing a just work it thru the center.

these types of splicing operations are actually really easy once you get the hang of them.

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist



PostThu Aug 05, 21 6:33 am     Reply with quote

There are a plethora of various types of acceptable stock on the market for splicing slider ropes.

What you want to look for is the following composition and construction: some sort of UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) polyethylene polymer with a hollow core 12-strand braid. Trade names such as Dyneema, Amsteel, etc., are all examples of this.

You can compare details such rated breaking strength on the products’ spec sheets. They are all pretty similar, in my experience.

As others have mentioned, they are all dead nutz simple to splice.

This class of rope is well known for having wondrous tensile strength properties, but being very susceptible to abrasion. Some manufacturers are playing around with coatings and additives to their plastic formulae to make their products more abrasion resistant. I am interested in seeing how some of these work for kiting applications. For example, in another setting completely unrelated to kiting, I’ve been using 9/16” stock of Cortland HiCo, shock-loading it to >20k lbs, exposing it to sand and grit, and wrapping it onto a traction winch. It’s pretty amazing stuff.

https://www.cortlandcompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/CT_TL_046_0320_US_Plasma_HiCo_12_strand_tech_sheet_hres.pdf

There are lots of other products out there. Let’s play around with them and compare notes. Smile

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bkkite

Since 12 May 2021
2 Posts

New Member



PostTue Aug 24, 21 12:30 pm     Reply with quote

I've had mine since Jan 2020, and did about 90 sessions on it (probably 60% twin tip / 40% surf and foil), and it held up fine. Accidentally lost the stealth bar on a trip, so just got a new one, but I was about to swap out the dyneema.

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