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eric
Since 13 Jan 2006
1831 Posts
XTreme Poster
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Sat May 19, 18 7:50 am Knots |
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Trying to tighten my slider rope on my Rideengine harness. Using a figure 8 knot. Problem is it’s very difficult to get knot to snug up to the back of the bar as you tighten the rope. Any knots that are good for this and of course won’t slip?
Thanks,
Eric
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Gman
Since 11 Feb 2006
4907 Posts
Portland
Unstrapped
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Ho-Toe
Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist
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Sat May 19, 18 3:34 pm Super glue! |
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Thanks for that bit about the oysterman’s knot...
I’ve had decent luck with a plain ol’ overhand or figure 8 backed up with a couple drops of super glue. Of course, you wanna inspect your slider line frequently!
Have any of you NWkiters made Nak-style double-layered spliced lines for your spreader bars? How’d that work out? I’ve been intending to try this, but have yet to pull the trigger.
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aksurfer
Since 30 Aug 2010
91 Posts
Anchorage, AK
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Sat May 19, 18 4:09 pm |
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I've been using a regular overhand knot with super glue gently manipulated in with a toothpick, no problems to date. Replace once a season and I'm using a 4m-7m a lot.
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bigjohn
Since 13 Mar 2012
663 Posts
Addicted
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Sat May 19, 18 6:28 pm Re: Super glue! |
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Ho-Toe wrote: | Thanks for that bit about the oysterman’s knot...
I’ve had decent luck with a plain ol’ overhand or figure 8 backed up with a couple drops of super glue. Of course, you wanna inspect your slider line frequently!
Have any of you NWkiters made Nak-style double-layered spliced lines for your spreader bars? How’d that work out? I’ve been intending to try this, but have yet to pull the trigger. |
Nak's writeup was impressive. I have made quite a few lines with that technique and am happy with the result. I messed around with different lengths just for kicks.
_________________ Kiting starts at 40MPH |
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Ho-Toe
Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist
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Sun May 20, 18 6:03 am |
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Thanks bigjohn. You have inspired me to find my fid and get after it...
Did you use the eye in the end of the splice in which you fold the spectra over & penetrate the hollow core of the braid to capture a little tiny shackle (ala dynabar) and use the hardware as a stopper, so you only have to tie one stopper knot?
Last edited by Ho-Toe on Sun May 20, 18 9:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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bigjohn
Since 13 Mar 2012
663 Posts
Addicted
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Sun May 20, 18 8:53 am |
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Ho-Toe wrote: | Thanks bigjohn. You have inspired me to find my fid and get after it...
Did you use the eye in the end of the splice in which you fold the spectra over & penetrate the splice to capture a little tiny shackle (ala dynabar) and use the hardware as a stopper, so you only have to tie one stopper knot? |
Yo Hoe-Toe,
Just re-read your message and I realized I had misread your original post.
I made a whole bunch of the the Center Line depower ropes using NAK's method. I did this years ago and made about about a dozen all at once. I haven't burned threw my stash yet.
That will teach me to skim posts....
_________________ Kiting starts at 40MPH |
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Kmun
Since 05 Jul 2009
258 Posts
Obsessed
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Sun May 20, 18 11:39 am Nak Rope / Knot Technique |
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Can someone provide the link to Nak's detail description to this "Nak-style double-layered spliced lines" dynema rope/knot/attachment technique?
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Ho-Toe
Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist
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Sun May 20, 18 2:09 pm |
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bigjohn wrote: | Ho-Toe wrote: | Thanks bigjohn. You have inspired me to find my fid and get after it...
Did you use the eye in the end of the splice in which you fold the spectra over & penetrate the splice to capture a little tiny shackle (ala dynabar) and use the hardware as a stopper, so you only have to tie one stopper knot? |
Yo Hoe-Toe,
Just re-read your message and I realized I had misread your original post.
I made a whole bunch of the the Center Line depower ropes using NAK's method. I did this years ago and made about about a dozen all at once. I haven't burned threw my stash yet.
That will teach me to skim posts.... |
Hey bigjohn—no worries.
I’ll be the guinea pig. If I never post again, you’ll know it didn’t work out well. 😀
Nak’s awesome DIY tutorial: http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-31373.html&highlight=
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wylieflyote
Since 30 Jun 2006
1646 Posts
Puget Sound & Wa. Coast
XTreme Poster
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Sun May 20, 18 2:36 pm |
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I'd like to shorten mine a bit but I can't see me getting my teeth back in there to chew on the knot.
_________________ CGKA Member
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Kip Wylie |
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bwd
Since 04 Aug 2007
385 Posts
Obsessed
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Sun May 20, 18 5:22 pm |
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When you value your teeth and nails and don’t have room to lay knotted line flat on a hard surface and roll over it with something hard (tool handle, block of wood, etc. ) until it loosens, vise-grip pliers gently applied work wonders. If overly concerned with line damage, use a piece of leather or heavy cloth between the vise-grips and the line.
If you do it every day, grind the teeth off a pair of vise-grips or buy the smooth kind if you can find them.
I took 1/2-1” of slack out of my 2017 carbon ride engine sliding spreader bar this way a couple months ago and it worked great. I didn’t bother padding the pliers, since I don’t think a little fraying in the knot is critical for the application and I will change it out periodically anyway. So far so good, but only a few sessions.
Will try to remember to update this when I do replace it, maybe next winter or spring...
Feel free to remind me if I forget....
Psyched for summer, good winds to all!!
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Ho-Toe
Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist
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Sun May 20, 18 7:04 pm Another useful knot-pickin’ tool |
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bwd wrote: | When you value your teeth and nails and don’t have room to lay knotted line flat on a hard surface and roll over it with something hard (tool handle, block of wood, etc. ) until it loosens, vise-grip pliers gently applied work wonders. |
A small marlinspike (like on a sailor’s knife) is also extremely useful for this task. Make sure it’s got a nice smooth surface, free of nicks & burrs...
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Mlander
Since 06 Oct 2010
33 Posts
Mosier, Or
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Mon May 21, 18 6:32 am Ashley Stopper knot |
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Interesting information about the figure 8 knot and its slippage. I'm hesitant to switch from a figure 8 unless I know it works. Can anyone comment on the Ashley Stopper knot that's used it for a while in this application?
Thanks
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happycamper
Since 11 Jul 2012
74 Posts
white salmon
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Mon May 21, 18 8:32 am |
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I have tightened my 2018 rope 3x already, finally got the figure 8 tight and put an over hand knot behind it, so far no slippage and that includes Tue- Thu last week.
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bigjohn
Since 13 Mar 2012
663 Posts
Addicted
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Mon May 21, 18 9:21 am |
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wylieflyote wrote: | I'd like to shorten mine a bit but I can't see me getting my teeth back in there to chew on the knot. |
I don't own a ride engine rope harness, so at risk of embarrassing myself twice on the same thread ...
Could a person place some sort of metal tightening contraption on the inside layer of the bar.
Perhaps something along the lines of a turnbuckle like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Turnbuckle-Jaw/dp/B01D7ZH69W/
I'm just throwin out ideas here...
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_________________ Kiting starts at 40MPH |
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Nak
Since 19 May 2005
4238 Posts
Camas
Site Lackey
CGKA Member
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Wed May 23, 18 1:39 pm Re: Nak Rope / Knot Technique |
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Kmun wrote: | Can someone provide the link to Nak's detail description to this "Nak-style double-layered spliced lines" dynema rope/knot/attachment technique? |
http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-31373.html
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Ho-Toe
Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist
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Thu Jun 07, 18 8:45 pm one other little thing |
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Just for grins, the last time I replaced my spreader line (Dynabar) I experimented with using a larger diameter line, basically the biggest diameter stock I could jam thru the holes in the spreader bar. I believe it came with something like ~3/16", but I bumped it up to ~1/4" Amsteel blue. I was a bit concerned at first about how it rode in the dynabar pulley (the diameter was a little bigger than the groove in the sheave), but when it gets wet and gets a little use, the line tends to flatten out enough that it rides in the sheave just fine. The larger diameter line has more fibers per strand, so therefore it wears better than my original line did. There is noticeably less fraying at the ends where the line passes thru the holes in the ends of the spreader bar. Less fraying = safer & longer service life.
YMMV...
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