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Jonpnw
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Since 22 Jul 2010
1323 Posts
Pacific Northwest
XTreme Poster
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Sun Jul 09, 17 6:47 pm Cleated trim ropes |
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Friendly reminder to those using cleated trim rope systems . Make sure you always cleat the rope and not just let the plastic dingle ball smash into the teeth . The plastic piece is for making the rope grab easier NOT to be a certified load stop .
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_________________ Slingshot | Ride Engine |Try before you buy | PM me
Join the Columbia Gorge Water Sports Association. http://gorgewindsurfing.org/ |
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Windian
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Since 28 Apr 2008
883 Posts
Newport, OR
NEWPORT OG
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Mon Jul 10, 17 9:14 am |
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Good to know, thanks for the technical advice.
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wallydog
Since 30 May 2012
223 Posts
Stoked
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Mon Jul 10, 17 9:31 am |
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Question is have you actually seen a slingy handle torn off the d-power end? That would be a bummer.
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Jonpnw
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Since 22 Jul 2010
1323 Posts
Pacific Northwest
XTreme Poster
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Mon Jul 10, 17 9:33 am Yes |
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wallydog wrote: | Question is have you actually seen a slingy handle torn off the d-power end? That would be a bummer. |
Yes it has happened . I was surprised how many people were unaware of this.
_________________ Slingshot | Ride Engine |Try before you buy | PM me
Join the Columbia Gorge Water Sports Association. http://gorgewindsurfing.org/ |
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Sasquatch
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Since 09 Mar 2005
2062 Posts
PNW
Bigfoot
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Mon Jul 10, 17 10:03 am Re: Yes |
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Jonpnw wrote: | wallydog wrote: | Question is have you actually seen a slingy handle torn off the d-power end? That would be a bummer. |
Yes it has happened . I was surprised how many people were unaware of this. |
How hard would it be to place a half hitch knot at the end of the plastic/rubber end for failsafe measures? I realize it is one more step in the mfg process. . .
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Gman
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Since 11 Feb 2006
4907 Posts
Portland
Unstrapped
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Pepi
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Since 16 Jun 2006
1831 Posts
Pure Stoke Sports
Shop Owner
CGKA Member
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Anthony
Since 07 Oct 2008
362 Posts
Salem
Obsessed
CGKA Member
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Mon Jul 10, 17 7:29 pm |
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My instructor made is very clear that rope was to be cleated in at all times. He had his line go through the screws years before. He has been teaching for a long time, he has the knowledge. He said it was best to break the handle and tie a knot at the end. I always make sure my line is cleated in. The handle breaks easy with a hammer. A few hard hits and the handle is in pieces. I have replaced a few handles when replace the trim ropes.
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wallydog
Since 30 May 2012
223 Posts
Stoked
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Mon Jul 10, 17 9:45 pm |
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I have been doing the double de-power line as Nak suggested quite awhile ago in this forum. Excellent Slingshot bar upgrade. Really should try it. You can actually pull in or out on the de-power with ease at all times. I do not know why slingy doesn't just do this from the start. The new line is backed up with a figure 8 at the end of the handle. This should never let go.
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Ho-Toe
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Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist
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Tue Jul 11, 17 5:23 am Don't need to whack it with a hammer |
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Anthony wrote: | He said it was best to break the handle and tie a knot at the end. I always make sure my line is cleated in. The handle breaks easy with a hammer. A few hard hits and the handle is in pieces. I have replaced a few handles when replace the trim ropes. |
I too have replaced a trim line or two using Nak's doubled amsteel splice. Following the awesome procedure he wrote up, I learned that the only tool one needs to remove that handle is a phillips screwdriver. There is a SS screw in the handle that locks it in place. Remove the handle, and you can do whatever modification you'd like (knot, stopper ball, etc.) with ease. There is no need to destructively modify your gear using a hammer. That handle is kind of nice to keep around for pulling your trim line.
Or you could just cleat it, just like you're gonna have to do anyway when you pull some trim line. I really don't understand why this is an issue for anybody...
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Jonpnw
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Since 22 Jul 2010
1323 Posts
Pacific Northwest
XTreme Poster
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Tue Jul 11, 17 5:59 am Re: Don't need to whack it with a hammer |
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Ho-Toe wrote: |
Or you could just cleat it, just like you're gonna have to do anyway when you pull some trim line. I really don't understand why this is an issue for anybody... |
I don't think it is an issue other than people are just uninformed.
_________________ Slingshot | Ride Engine |Try before you buy | PM me
Join the Columbia Gorge Water Sports Association. http://gorgewindsurfing.org/ |
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Anthony
Since 07 Oct 2008
362 Posts
Salem
Obsessed
CGKA Member
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Tue Jul 11, 17 6:15 am Re: Don't need to whack it with a hammer - maybe NO! |
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I should agree the Philips head screw driver is best, that is until the screw head snaps off leaving the screw in the rope. I have the 2008 Slingshot Bars, about half of the time when I remove the screws from the handle, one will break off. Instead trying to get the screw out, I break the plastic handle and replace with new one I got from PEPI’s discount parts basket($5 handle). My time is better spend breaking the handle off and replacing it then trying to get a screw out. If you have a more modern bar, I would hope the screw would come out easier. My next set of kites will not have lower trim if I can help it.
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happycamper
Since 11 Jul 2012
74 Posts
white salmon
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Tue Jul 11, 17 7:01 am trim rope |
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Anyone ever try putting some Velcro on the handle and then the body of the cleat/release mechanism? I hate having all that line swinging around when I'm depowered a lot. Yeah, I know, change to a smaller kite.
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craz z
Since 01 Dec 2008
130 Posts
Montana
Stoked
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Tue Jul 11, 17 7:49 am |
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I have multiple brand bars. I can say i'm not a fan at all of the velcro. It frays the shit out of the depower line. constantly pulling on threads as the velcro sticks to the depower line. Might be a good time to wax it maybe.
(I'm thinking some kind of magnet system would be the ticket for the dangle)
I know what you mean by pulling so much rope. With foiling its just the way it is sometimes. need power to get going and then don't need any of it when your on foil.
I too have been reminding people about pre-cleating before launching. Never had a pull through but certainly can happen. its a absolute struggle if it isn't cleated and you need to pull some in.
I think this thread is helpful even if it is common sense.
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Sella
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Since 21 Apr 2007
1794 Posts
Doin' The Dalles
FLY'IN HIGH PIE GUY
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Tue Jul 11, 17 11:15 am |
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Why not add a cup holder while were at it? Velcro, magnets, selfie sticks.....fuck ya Merica!
Or.....you get up to speed on the truth. Gman wrote: | always felt the kite performed best when sheeted in at least a few inches - good to know |
I'm sheeted in 1 inch on all my bars and almost never touch them as any excessive depowering impacts the kite tune "on/off" switch and IMO only accentuates gusty conditions adding more stress to Gorge beginners. Set it and forget it.
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craz z
Since 01 Dec 2008
130 Posts
Montana
Stoked
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Tue Jul 11, 17 12:09 pm |
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We don't have the luxury of the gorge winds. Gusty to us is 0-50 last weekend i rode 3 kites within 4 hours and ran each to their edge from high to low.
Foiling has increased my use of the depower from no trim to full trim in as little as 1 mile long tack. along with full on terrifying can't stop overpowered followed by slogging and swimming in after the fun stops. I'm so ready for a steady wind gorge trip.
Under any other conditions like the TT or surfboard i would never touch the trim rope ever just change out kites if needed.
A gusty gorge day is our best day ever here (at least in the summer)! Spring/fall winds are much smoother and predictable but the water is cold.
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Sella
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Since 21 Apr 2007
1794 Posts
Doin' The Dalles
FLY'IN HIGH PIE GUY
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Tue Jul 11, 17 12:51 pm |
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Those are brutal conditions Craz....and yes we are spoiled in the Gorge but if our gusty days are your best days.......time to head West and come visit as it's been booming this month, finally.
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